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Arty

Manu Viron, the free-minded cook

Updating : 21/06/2007

If Lyon has been the capital of gastronomy, for ages, it is because this city knows also how to nourish within it, cooks as surprising as Manu Viron. Profoundly creative, but especially constructive and who carries out a true reflection on his art. And his décor is also worth seeing.

Maison Borie : Salle et Vue Cave

More especially, rush to Gerland and not only for football matches of the six times French Champions, nor for the concerts held at the Halle Tony Garnier, but also to discover the wonderfully inspired cuisine and décor of the Maison Borie.

 

In this district which was formerly industrial and is now devoted to business and to state-of-the-art activities, an absolutely delicious terrace and veranda are hidden.

 

Installed there since 2002, Manu Viron, powerfully inspired by Ferran Adrià, the Catalan genius and Pierre Gagnaire, entrusted Pierre Gangloff with the realization of the decor. One comes into the place as into a theatre and can discover, in the dining room, fountains of stemmed glasses, which flow from the ceiling  and from which steel vines escape, maxims running along the walls, an aquarium where a magnificent and ferocious fish reigns, made out of  recycled materials.

Maison Borie : Véranda

Everything here is surprising, starting with the cuisine, including the lunch menu which proposes, for example, a simple stewed shin of lamb but adorned with a juice of liquorice wood, riste of eggplants and piquillos (small red peppers) with oregano

 

A la carte, creamed swamp bean soup with olive oil; skewers of crystallized Sanglioro sardines; cod filet, accompanied with powdered matcha tea and, for dessert, supreme of citrus fruits and jelly of fizzy champagne and mini-macaroons

 

The cuisine is furiously trendy, often disconcerting at first sight, but always excellent, which is absolutely necessary. To be convinced and test, it is essential to offer oneself the aperitifs of the Maison Borie for example, with a glass of the best Condrieu wine, accompanied with an opera of foie gras and chocolate, with a pink duck breast with balsamic vinegar and devilla cherry, a scallop with coriander and cochineal sticks, according to the Chef's inspiration. That costs no more than twenty euros and it puts on quite a show!

Practical

Maison Borie, at Lyon (Rhône)

3, place Antonin Perrin

Tel.: 00 33 (0)4 72 76 20 20

maisonborie.fr

 

Menus

23 and 28 € for lunch; 48 and 75 € for dinner and 105 € for the menu Accord Cuisine et Vin.

Closed on Saturday at lunch time and on Sunday.

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